SUPERTOILET

 

SUPER TOILET!

 

HOW TO MAKE A 2.8 GALLON TOILET OUT OF YOUR 1.6 GALLON TOILET

 

        You can make a super toilet. Bigger - over a gallon more water! And stronger than any 1.6 gallon toilet! -the extra force of over a gallon more water's weight (8+ pounds) on the stuff. 
       It's legal to make your own gun in the USA, so it's legal to make your own toilet too. A modified toilet. Just a few small changes to the inside of a common 1.6 gallon toilet, changes it into a 2.6 to 2.8 galllon toilet.
       Just add a 3 inch or so section of a plastic pipe, to the pipe standing upright near the base of the "flapper". This raises the water level 3 inches or so, and that adds over a gallon to the toilet, to be blasted into the bowl. No more clogs! (Haven't had one yet).
       You need some putty epoxy, the blue and yellow ribbon epoxy is the best I've seen in over 36 years. It takes a while to mix, but it is as strong as steal. 
       And a few sections of plastic PVC (PolyVynilChloride) pipe with blue/yellow ribbon putty epoxy*. And you move and epoxy the float bulb, adjust the float bulb arm screw a little with a screw driver or hand twist.
       This is an inside view of a 1.6 gallon toilet: 




      WOW! How about that! No more clogging! No More plungers, or flushing twice! Yahoooo! 
       Where do I get all the stuff to make it?
       Well, you can try your local hardware stores. Listed are the size PVC or plastic pipes needed. Blue/yellow ribbon putty epoxy works best*.   Or you can order the super toilet kit below !

PARTS NEEDED AND HOW TO MAKE THEM

       Get one (1") inch outside diameter white PVC pipe, usually available in 3 foot to ten foot lengths at a hardware store. - cut a three inch (3") section off it, for epoxying to the top of the overflow drain pipe.

       Get seven eighths inch (7/8") outside diameter PVC pipe, also it is 5/8" inside diameter, and mine is marked "1/2 inch pipe", at a hardware store. Cut about seven and a half inches (7 1/2") from one end of the pipe, to make a 7 1/2" pipe. It will be used to place over the metal valve float arm that shuts off the water going into the tank. Best to sand paper both ends of the pipe to about a half inch long, sand paper around the pipe ends so the epoxy will stick well. #40, or #60, or #80 grit sand paper is OK.

       Cut about a two inch (2") length of the 7/8" outside diameter pipe, and then cut it in half going down the cylinder cutting the "O" in half to make a "C". Two "C"s are made, one in each half of the former pipe cylinder. Two (2) troughs are made. - just need one of them. -for epoxying the float bulb to it, and then to the shut off arm over pipe.

 

HOW TO PUT TOGETHER TO MAKE SUPER TOILET

1.     Take off the rubber or hard plastic or flexible plastic "float bulb", by twisting it, unscrewing it in a direction towards you:  

 

 

 

 

 

   

2.     Then after shutting off the water, so it does not fill up. Do this by finding the water shut off valve on the wall, usually under the left side of the tank area. Turn clockwise looking down on it, until it stops. Then push flush lever button, to flush it, so all the water goes out. It will not fill up, until you turn the wall valve counter clockwise back to it's original position.



3.     Then make some epoxy*, by cutting off about three and a half inches (3 1/2") and squeasing the blue and yellow ribbon together after folding it. Then fold, squeez, knead, squash... and fold and pull and fold and pull.... squeez, knead, squash... and fold and pull and fold and pull.... For about 10 minuts until it is all green. Then take about two thirds (2/3) of it, and after moving the 7 1/2" inch long, 7/8" outside diameter pipe over the metal rod float bulb arm. Move it so you have about an inch (1 inch) space from the right side of the tank. And try to plug up the metal arm side into the pipe surrounding the metal arm, and place some epoxy over the end of the pipe too, and along the metal arm for a half inch to an inch or so. Also put some epoxy gobs around the metal arm, about four inches (4") past the point where the end of the pipe stops on the metal arm - just small enough so the pipe will fit over it some - but it will contact it later as it moves a bit, to hold the inside some. Also flatten the third of the epoxy left out into a one and a quarter (1 1/4") inch circle or so, and place on the end of the pipe to seal it. Press around the edges of the end of the pipe near the tank side, making it water proof. You can use a cup or toilet paper tube or anything to place below the end of the arm with the new pipe on it, under the end of the white pipe, so it does not move crooked too much, try to keep it straight. It will rest at an angle . .

 
4.     RAISING THE DRAIN TUBE TOP - which increases the water level over a gallon.
      
Take the three (3") inch by one (1") inch diameter pipe section, and make some epoxy. Cut (scissors, knife, razor blade... ) about a two (2") length of putty epoxy ribbon, and squash, fold, pull.... till no yellow bits are seen, and all is green. Then place hte 3 inch pipe on the top of the drain pipe - after taking off any tube holding thing if any. And sand paper around the edge to a 1/2 inch down or more on the drain pipe. Sand paper one end of the three (3") inch pipe too, which should be placed on top of the drain pipe. m And epoxy around trhe pipes, putting epoxy around both pipes, so they will stick together by a sleeve of epoxy:

5.     Epoxying the Float bulb on the 2 inch trough pipe half. 
       The trough will contact the arm pipe well, when placed over it with epoxy under the trough pipe. But the bulb needs to be epoxied on the 2 inch trough half pipe - on top of the rounded side, not the curved inside, on the former OUTSIDE of the pipe before it was cut. Sand paper plastic Bulbs where the epoxy will hit it. Sand paper the rubbber bulbs too, the epoxy whould stick some, but not as well as a plastic bulb, so a nylon tie is used with the rubber bulbs also.
      
Make some epoxy putty, and place on the 2 inch pipe, and then put the bulb on it squashing, pressing it down on to the pipe. Push some epoxy onto the sides under the bulb near the pipe to go around the bulb a little, into the grooves if rubber (it might not stick well to the rubber bulbs that well but place on anyway). Should stick fine on plastic bulbs.:

  


And then epoxying the right end of the 7/8" pipe at the hollow other end near the right side of the tank so it will float and be water proof.  Cover the end, maybe make a circle out of the epoxy bigger than the end by about a 1/4 inch around (1/2 ionch more diameter), then place circle of putty epoxy over the right pipe end, and squash around the edge until sealed.

*Some putty epoxies tend to be brittle and not stick well, but you can try other putty epoxys, they might work. The blue and yellow ribbon putty epoxy is the best I think. Send for Blue/yellow ribbon epoxy from a few links here:

http://www.gregdorrance.com/kneadatite-green-stuff-ribbon-epoxy-brick-p-1166.html

http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Creative_Kneadatite_Putties.html

http://www.miniaturemolds.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=castings&Product_Code=MS104 ($13.98)

http://web.inetba.com/anyinc/item330642.ctlg -sells it for $12.50

Sells a $12.95 tube of one blue bar and one yellow bar. (3.52 oz.)

http://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/tools-and-misc/green-stuff-kneadatite-blue-yellow-epoxy-putty.html

  

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